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Steve
11-05-2005, 01:55 PM
Bring a big appetite to Hash House A Go Go.
By Ken White

A lot of restaurants pride themselves on serving large portions. But it's a pretty good bet they're not as big as those served at Hash House A Go Go, 6800 W. Sahara Ave.

The food has to be practically wheeled up to the table -- and it's a wonder diners don't have to be wheeled out.

Call it cuisine on steroids.

The original Hash House A Go Go has been a big success in San Diego since it was opened 5 1/2 years ago by chef Craig "Andy" Beardslee, who's originally from Indiana, and general manager Johnny Rivera.

Jim Rees brought the concept to Las Vegas a little more than a month ago as a joint venture with the owners.

"Even though people don't know what to expect when they see the name or the building, we think they're pleasantly surprised," Rees says.

This is the first Hash House A Go Go outside of San Diego, and it serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

"Vegas is a great culinary town, and we think this fits the concept well," Rees says.

Billed as "twisted farm food," the restaurant's theme is "urban meets country." There's a small grain silo in the main dining room; the tables are metal; corrugated metal lines the walls. The artwork consists of black-and-white photos of tractors.

"We have the old familiar favorites, comfort food, but like you've never seen before," Rees says, adding that practically everything is made in-house.

People may be puzzled by the venue's name, he says, but "you'll get the 'Go Go' part when you see the food."

Chef Anthony Vidal, who trained in San Diego for several months before the local restaurant opened, says he follows the founder (Beardslee). "He has great ideas. This is farm-fresh food made like in the old days. It's not complicated food."

Seating 140 in the dining room with 200 overall, including the front and back patios and the bar area, Hash House A Go Go is open from 7:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for breakfast and lunch, and 5 to 9:30 p.m. for dinner. It stays open until 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, but it isn't open for dinner on Sundays. Brunch is served from 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on Saturdays and Sundays. Reservations are accepted (804-4646).

Following are some items on the dinner menu.

Salads: Caesar with corn croutons and crispy Parmesan cheese ($6.95); red leaf salad with cashews, goat cheese and roasted red pepper vinaigrette ($6.95); Hash House salad with mixed greens, radish and creamy cucumber dressing ($4.95); market tomato salad with garlic, basil, olive oil, balsamic vinegar and crispy Parmesan cheese ($7.95); and mixed greens plus macadamia nuts, blue cheese, baby tomato and mango clover honey vinaigrette ($6.95).

Entrees: Andy's Crispy Indiana-Style Hand-Hammered Pork Tenderloin with griddled smoked mozzarella, caramelized onions, spinach, portabella mushrooms, house-charred tomato and barbecue cream served with horseradish mashed potatoes and grilled corn on the cob ($23.95); sage fried chicken with a hardwood-smoked bacon waffle tower, hot maple caramel and fried leeks ($17.95); stuffed Hash House meatloaf with spinach, roasted red peppers, mozzarella, Marsala cream and griddled mashed potatoes ($16.95); griddled chili-crusted Indiana maple leaf duck breasts with prosciutto mashed yams, maple barbecue glaze, goat cheese and toasted cashews ($21.95); braised slow-cooked barbecue pork ribs with griddled horseradish mashed potatoes, fried leeks and vegetables ($18.95); Big O' Chicken Pot Pie with an upside down hat crust, roasted chicken, shaved sweet corn, red potatoes and pan gravy ($12.95); roasted butternut squash stuffed with risotto and topped with cornmeal-crusted rock shrimp, asparagus and sun-dried tomato olive oil ($16.95); and grilled swordfish with crispy rock shrimp, chilled tomato salad, basil pesto mayo and sweet corn mashed potatoes ($22.95).

Steaks include grilled 14-ounce New York steak with hardwood smoked bacon, charred tomato, roasted onion and baby green beans on a bed of smoked cheddar scallion mashed potatoes ($24.95); griddled beef tenderloin stuffed with yellow tomato, spinach and griddled smoked mozzarella and topped with barbecue cream, plus garlic mashed potatoes and vegetables ($23.95); 18-ounce bone-in rib-eye with maple sage garlic butter, prosciutto and griddled brie served with pumpkin mashed potatoes and vegetables ($22.95).

Dessert: Snickers chocolate bread pudding, homemade fruit cobbler and homemade cheesecake ($7.95 each).
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