Steve
03-09-2008, 08:45 AM
The year of eating ravenously.
Recapping the great, the bad and the ugly of 2007. By Al Mancini/Las Vegas City Life.
I'VE BEEN WRITING this column for nearly five years. And while I write about food for other publications, I love Citylife for one simple reason: It's the only place where I write reviews of restaurants, rather than features. I don't interview the chef, tour his kitchen, share a plate of his specialty or meet his staff. I just experience a restaurant under the same circumstances my readers would, and tell them whether I think the place is worth a return visit. It's fairly simple, but hopefully helpful.
Looking back on the restaurants reviewed over the last year, the vast majority were good -- meaning I'd pay them another visit if I was in the neighborhood. Other experiences were either great (I made a mental note to return as often as possible), bad (I doubt I'll return) and even ugly (horrible service ruined a restaurant that might actually be good on another night, with a different waiter.) Here are the standouts of 2007.
THE GREAT
San Toki (4480 Paradise Road; 732-8654) In a neighborhood packed with great, popular restaurants, this incredible Korean establishment stands out for its modern dining room and wonderful food. It offers two different fun and delicious types of Korean cuisine: barbecue and shabu shabu/sukiyaki. Both require guests to cook their own food, either on a family-style grill or in personal hot pots, and are fun and social ways to enjoy a meal.
Rao's (Caesars Palace; 731-7267) After 110 years in Harlem, this New York City landmark (famed for the impossibility of scoring a reservation) came to Las Vegas this year with Italian recipes honed to perfection over its long history. The food is fairly basic, but stands out because of top-of-the-line ingredients and consistently perfect preparation. The prices are a bit higher than at your neighborhood Italian restaurant, but they're worth it.
Vintner Grill (10100 W. Charleston Blvd; 214-5590) Michael and Sean Corrigan (owners of the Roadrunner Saloons and the Mexican restaurant Agave) have outdone themselves with their latest restaurant. It boasts a beautifully designed, casually elegant interior and a winding patio with cabana tables and strung lanterns. But the real treat here is the contemporary American cuisine with Mediterranean influences.
Hot & Juicy Crawfish (4810 Spring Mountain Road; 891-8889) This place is an acquired taste, and definitely not for anyone who doesn't want to get his hands dirty. But it was guaranteed to make my list when I saw they offer seasonal blue crabs alongside the more common Dungeness (even if their four tasty preparations don't include bay seasoning). If tearing into messy crabs, shrimp, oysters and crawfish by hand is your idea of heaven, this is the place for you.
Rosemary's (8125 W. Sahara Road; 869-2251) Rosemary's has been a locals' favorite for years, and its food is consistently ranked among the best in the city. But what inspired my column this year was the five-course tasting menu, which is priced at an astonishingly affordable $70. If you want to indulge, this feast ranks with the tasting menus at the finest Strip restaurants, and is a lot more affordable.
THE BAD
Tahiti Joe's (7200 Las Vegas Boulevard S.; 440-6950) A tacky Polynesian theme and food that at times approached inedible had me out the door before I came close to finishing my meal.
Louis's Fish Camp (6599 Las Vegas Boulevard S.; 463-3000) My prejudice against Town Square's faux-urban center motif has a lot to do with my dislike of this place. But high prices, inconsistent food and an unknowledgeable server also played a part. It had its good moments, but I don't see myself returning.
THE UGLY
Aroma Garden Café (5875 S. Rainbow Blvd.; 221-4893) Here's a note, guys: If you have a party of 14 celebrating a family birthday, sit other diners far enough away that they won't have to contend with an ass in the face or a purse to the head as the celebrants move around the table. You might also want to clear the table of dishes from time to time.
Voodoo Steak (The Rio; 777-8090) If a place screws up the same steak twice in one night, I usually expect the chef or manager to at least stop by to apologize. Not here.
Sedona (9580 W. Flamingo Road; 320-4700) Maybe they just don't like punk rock types here, but everyone around me got great service while I was ignored.
http://lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2007/12/27/eats_and_drinks/dining/iq_18675294.txt
Recapping the great, the bad and the ugly of 2007. By Al Mancini/Las Vegas City Life.
I'VE BEEN WRITING this column for nearly five years. And while I write about food for other publications, I love Citylife for one simple reason: It's the only place where I write reviews of restaurants, rather than features. I don't interview the chef, tour his kitchen, share a plate of his specialty or meet his staff. I just experience a restaurant under the same circumstances my readers would, and tell them whether I think the place is worth a return visit. It's fairly simple, but hopefully helpful.
Looking back on the restaurants reviewed over the last year, the vast majority were good -- meaning I'd pay them another visit if I was in the neighborhood. Other experiences were either great (I made a mental note to return as often as possible), bad (I doubt I'll return) and even ugly (horrible service ruined a restaurant that might actually be good on another night, with a different waiter.) Here are the standouts of 2007.
THE GREAT
San Toki (4480 Paradise Road; 732-8654) In a neighborhood packed with great, popular restaurants, this incredible Korean establishment stands out for its modern dining room and wonderful food. It offers two different fun and delicious types of Korean cuisine: barbecue and shabu shabu/sukiyaki. Both require guests to cook their own food, either on a family-style grill or in personal hot pots, and are fun and social ways to enjoy a meal.
Rao's (Caesars Palace; 731-7267) After 110 years in Harlem, this New York City landmark (famed for the impossibility of scoring a reservation) came to Las Vegas this year with Italian recipes honed to perfection over its long history. The food is fairly basic, but stands out because of top-of-the-line ingredients and consistently perfect preparation. The prices are a bit higher than at your neighborhood Italian restaurant, but they're worth it.
Vintner Grill (10100 W. Charleston Blvd; 214-5590) Michael and Sean Corrigan (owners of the Roadrunner Saloons and the Mexican restaurant Agave) have outdone themselves with their latest restaurant. It boasts a beautifully designed, casually elegant interior and a winding patio with cabana tables and strung lanterns. But the real treat here is the contemporary American cuisine with Mediterranean influences.
Hot & Juicy Crawfish (4810 Spring Mountain Road; 891-8889) This place is an acquired taste, and definitely not for anyone who doesn't want to get his hands dirty. But it was guaranteed to make my list when I saw they offer seasonal blue crabs alongside the more common Dungeness (even if their four tasty preparations don't include bay seasoning). If tearing into messy crabs, shrimp, oysters and crawfish by hand is your idea of heaven, this is the place for you.
Rosemary's (8125 W. Sahara Road; 869-2251) Rosemary's has been a locals' favorite for years, and its food is consistently ranked among the best in the city. But what inspired my column this year was the five-course tasting menu, which is priced at an astonishingly affordable $70. If you want to indulge, this feast ranks with the tasting menus at the finest Strip restaurants, and is a lot more affordable.
THE BAD
Tahiti Joe's (7200 Las Vegas Boulevard S.; 440-6950) A tacky Polynesian theme and food that at times approached inedible had me out the door before I came close to finishing my meal.
Louis's Fish Camp (6599 Las Vegas Boulevard S.; 463-3000) My prejudice against Town Square's faux-urban center motif has a lot to do with my dislike of this place. But high prices, inconsistent food and an unknowledgeable server also played a part. It had its good moments, but I don't see myself returning.
THE UGLY
Aroma Garden Café (5875 S. Rainbow Blvd.; 221-4893) Here's a note, guys: If you have a party of 14 celebrating a family birthday, sit other diners far enough away that they won't have to contend with an ass in the face or a purse to the head as the celebrants move around the table. You might also want to clear the table of dishes from time to time.
Voodoo Steak (The Rio; 777-8090) If a place screws up the same steak twice in one night, I usually expect the chef or manager to at least stop by to apologize. Not here.
Sedona (9580 W. Flamingo Road; 320-4700) Maybe they just don't like punk rock types here, but everyone around me got great service while I was ignored.
http://lasvegascitylife.com/articles/2007/12/27/eats_and_drinks/dining/iq_18675294.txt