Steve
10-02-2005, 07:40 AM
I kind of like this bar.
Country star Toby Keith's new theme restaurant hasn't worked out the kinks.
BY AL MANCINI
Recently, a restaurant owner tried to convince me that it's unfair to critique a place based on only one visit. In his view, even the best establishment can have a bad night, and if that happens when a critic happens to be there the owners don't necessarily deserve to have it documented in print.
I don't buy that. Dining out can be expensive, and for many it's a luxury they don't get to indulge in very often. So nobody should ever leave a restaurant feeling as if he hasn't gotten his money's worth. If I ever do, I feel an obligation to warn my readers.
Of course, mistakes happen. But in my opinion, there isn't much that can't be fixed by a server or manager who acknowledges the mistake and tries to make up for it. A simple apology can go a long way, and a free round of drinks goes even further. I still rave about an incredible restaurant in New Orleans despite the fact that the server forgot our appetizers and proceeded straight to our entrees, because the owner came to the table to apologize and later sent over complimentary desserts. If someone tries to fix their mistake, they've earned a second chance in my eyes. Case in point: Toby Keith's I Love This Bar and Grill.
I have to admit I wasn't expecting to love the new restaurant at Harrah's. It's a theme restaurant, which I rarely like, and the theme is country music, which I gave up on at about the same time Nashville gave up on Johnny Cash. And I really don't know much about the owner, other than that he loves America, hates the Dixie Chicks and wants to put a boot in a terrorist's ass. But the menu offers some interesting Southern dishes, so I figured it was worth checking out.
When I arrived, it seemed obvious that it isn't really my kind of place. The tacky décor includes a guitar-shaped bar, guitar picks on the wall, platinum records and countless TV monitors showing country videos. And there's red, white and blue everywhere. I have no doubt that Keith's fans will love the place; it just isn't really my scene.
Fortunately, I found the menu a bit more inviting. In addition to basics like nachos ($6.99) and chili ($5.99), the appetizer section features tortilla soup ($5.99), fried rock shrimp and crawfish tails ($10.99) and something called Carolina pulled pork pockets ($6.99). There's a large sandwich selection, and entrees include two types of ribs ($19.99), grilled chicken pasta with southwestern cream ($12.99) and battered cod ($13.99).
We ordered the fried shrimp and crawfish and the pork pockets as starters, followed by meatloaf ($12.99) and fried catfish ($12.99). Thirty minutes later, we were still waiting for our appetizers, despite at least three promises from our waitress that they'd "be right up." When they finally arrived, nearly 40 minutes after we ordered them, the seafood nuggets were so small that all we could really taste was the breading. The pork pockets were more like fried wontons stuffed with a tiny portion of dry meat, completely missing the barbecue sauce promised on the menu. My bland catfish was surrounded by a handful of spicy pecans scattered around an otherwise barren plate. For side dishes we had chosen one order of regular mashed potatoes, one order of crawfish mashed potatoes, baked beans and fried okra, all of which were decent, but not exceptional. Only the meatloaf was above average: two large spicy slices coated in thick brown gravy. Otherwise, it seemed as thought Keith had provided a list of some of his favorite southern food to a chef who was completely unfamiliar with any of them.
I was not impressed.
When we finished our meal, however, our waitress took the time to explain that the staff was still working out some kinks, and that my order had somehow been lost. She also told me that our meals and our drinks would be free.
As I said, an apology and a gesture mean a lot. It clearly demonstrates that management realizes there are problems to be solved, and it gives me hope that they'll solve them. More importantly, I don't feel ripped off, and I'll be happy to give the place a second chance in a few months.
Toby Keith's I Love This Bar and Grill (inside Harrah's)
3465 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
693-6111
http://www.lvcitylife.com/articles/2005/07/28/dining_out/dining.txt (http://)
Country star Toby Keith's new theme restaurant hasn't worked out the kinks.
BY AL MANCINI
Recently, a restaurant owner tried to convince me that it's unfair to critique a place based on only one visit. In his view, even the best establishment can have a bad night, and if that happens when a critic happens to be there the owners don't necessarily deserve to have it documented in print.
I don't buy that. Dining out can be expensive, and for many it's a luxury they don't get to indulge in very often. So nobody should ever leave a restaurant feeling as if he hasn't gotten his money's worth. If I ever do, I feel an obligation to warn my readers.
Of course, mistakes happen. But in my opinion, there isn't much that can't be fixed by a server or manager who acknowledges the mistake and tries to make up for it. A simple apology can go a long way, and a free round of drinks goes even further. I still rave about an incredible restaurant in New Orleans despite the fact that the server forgot our appetizers and proceeded straight to our entrees, because the owner came to the table to apologize and later sent over complimentary desserts. If someone tries to fix their mistake, they've earned a second chance in my eyes. Case in point: Toby Keith's I Love This Bar and Grill.
I have to admit I wasn't expecting to love the new restaurant at Harrah's. It's a theme restaurant, which I rarely like, and the theme is country music, which I gave up on at about the same time Nashville gave up on Johnny Cash. And I really don't know much about the owner, other than that he loves America, hates the Dixie Chicks and wants to put a boot in a terrorist's ass. But the menu offers some interesting Southern dishes, so I figured it was worth checking out.
When I arrived, it seemed obvious that it isn't really my kind of place. The tacky décor includes a guitar-shaped bar, guitar picks on the wall, platinum records and countless TV monitors showing country videos. And there's red, white and blue everywhere. I have no doubt that Keith's fans will love the place; it just isn't really my scene.
Fortunately, I found the menu a bit more inviting. In addition to basics like nachos ($6.99) and chili ($5.99), the appetizer section features tortilla soup ($5.99), fried rock shrimp and crawfish tails ($10.99) and something called Carolina pulled pork pockets ($6.99). There's a large sandwich selection, and entrees include two types of ribs ($19.99), grilled chicken pasta with southwestern cream ($12.99) and battered cod ($13.99).
We ordered the fried shrimp and crawfish and the pork pockets as starters, followed by meatloaf ($12.99) and fried catfish ($12.99). Thirty minutes later, we were still waiting for our appetizers, despite at least three promises from our waitress that they'd "be right up." When they finally arrived, nearly 40 minutes after we ordered them, the seafood nuggets were so small that all we could really taste was the breading. The pork pockets were more like fried wontons stuffed with a tiny portion of dry meat, completely missing the barbecue sauce promised on the menu. My bland catfish was surrounded by a handful of spicy pecans scattered around an otherwise barren plate. For side dishes we had chosen one order of regular mashed potatoes, one order of crawfish mashed potatoes, baked beans and fried okra, all of which were decent, but not exceptional. Only the meatloaf was above average: two large spicy slices coated in thick brown gravy. Otherwise, it seemed as thought Keith had provided a list of some of his favorite southern food to a chef who was completely unfamiliar with any of them.
I was not impressed.
When we finished our meal, however, our waitress took the time to explain that the staff was still working out some kinks, and that my order had somehow been lost. She also told me that our meals and our drinks would be free.
As I said, an apology and a gesture mean a lot. It clearly demonstrates that management realizes there are problems to be solved, and it gives me hope that they'll solve them. More importantly, I don't feel ripped off, and I'll be happy to give the place a second chance in a few months.
Toby Keith's I Love This Bar and Grill (inside Harrah's)
3465 Las Vegas Blvd. S.
693-6111
http://www.lvcitylife.com/articles/2005/07/28/dining_out/dining.txt (http://)