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Steve
09-25-2005, 08:04 AM
Without a net.
The Steak House at Circus Circus is a hidden gem worth discovering (even if you're scared of clowns)

BY AL MANCINI

I've always had mixed emotions about Circus Circus. On the one hand, the place is always packed with screaming kids. Hell, most of the parents I see there don't look old enough to gamble. Yet they each seem to have a half-dozen brats in tow, every one of whom seems unhappy enough about something to bellow in that annoying screech that children love so much.

On the other hand, as a Hunter S. Thompson fan, I can't set eyes on the Horse-A-Round bar without climbing on board for a few drinks. There may be no better way to kill a few hours in Las Vegas than getting quietly drunk while rotating around that bar and watching circus acts. It's the kind of experience that makes one crave hallucinogens, and I truly believe that drug czar John Walters would rethink his position on LSD if he ever did a few rotations on it. Hell, even the screaming kids seem bearable from that vantage point.

But there's another reason to visit Circus Circus, one that doesn't conjure up fantasies of mind-altering substances, yet provides an even better escape from the pre-schoolers. It's the Circus Circus Steak House, one of this city's finest purveyors of dead cow.

Most locals have heard about the rather unoriginally named Steak House. Over the years it's developed quite a reputation as one of this city's hidden gems. Yet there are still plenty of steak lovers out there who have never tried it, undoubtedly due to its location in a low-budget tourist trap like Circus Circus. And that's truly a shame.

From the moment you walk through the doors of The Steak House, you completely forget where it's located. The dim light, the classic steak house décor and the almost deafening silence stand in stark contrast to the atmosphere outside. The place radiates old-school class. Even the central open kitchen, on display from every table, doesn't distract from the peaceful vibe of the dining room.

The menu at The Steak House is small and basic. There are seven appetizers, including oysters on the half shell ($12), jumbo shrimp on ice ($14) and two soups ($6 and $7). There are three a la carte salad choices ($6.50 to $8.50). But only the hungriest of diners are likely to order from either of those sections, since all of the entrees come with a choice of black bean soup or house salad, a potato and a vegetable.

It's pretty rare for a steak house to include that many courses in the price of a meal these days. Most high-end places charge you for everything, getting five to 10 bucks for a simple order of veggies. The fact that The Steak House provides a full meal with its entrees is even more astounding in light of its prices. Steaks run $28 for a top sirloin to $38 for filet mignon. Lamb chops are $37, chicken will run you $27, and salmon or halibut come in at $25. That makes The Steak House a steal compared to other great steak houses in town. Yet the food and service at The Steak House is as good or better than anyplace I've tried.

On my recent visit I had a filet mignon, with black bean soup and a baked potato. My wife had New York strip with salad and garlic mashed potatoes ($35). Both cuts of meat were huge, too big for either of us to finish, and accompanied by green beans. The steaks were great quality and perfectly prepared, and all of the other courses were as good as we could expect.

I'm a bit reluctant to crown The Steak House as the town's best place for a steak dinner after only one visit, and my wife still thinks the steak she's had at A.J.'s is a bit tastier. But for my money, the next time I want a steak, I'll definitely be returning to Circus Circus. If only they'd install a separate entrance so I could avoid all the kids, the place would be perfect.

The Steakhouse
2890 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Inside Circus Circus
794-3767
http://www.lvcitylife.com/articles/2005/09/23/dining_out/dining.txt (http://)
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claire254
09-26-2005, 12:29 PM
Hello,

I couldn't have stated it better. We have been going to Vegas for 30 years, and just visited this steakhouse on our last visit. Great meal. In fact we are going again in November. I'm going to investigate on how we can make a separate entrance also, as you really must wear blinders walking through the place.