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Steve
02-04-2007, 12:49 PM
The new neighbor.
Giuseppe's is a welcome addition to the ever-growing southwest area.

By Al Mancini
Las Vegas City Life

As anybody who reads this column with any regularity knows, I've spent the past several weeks planning a move from Green Valley to the west side. Well, I'm finally in my new place, and as anyone who's ever moved also knows, things never go as planned. As a result, I've spent most of the past week without access to television, mail or the Internet. It's a form of technological isolation that's nearly unbearable in this information age, and my efforts to combat it have left me spending much of my time on the phone (which was thankfully connected on time) arguing with various utility companies. The rest of my time has been spent finding ways to get some work done under these conditions. It hasn't left me with a lot of opportunities to cruise the city looking for new and exciting restaurants. Fortunately, I've stumbled upon some pretty good Italian food right in my new backyard, and am well on my way to becoming a regular there.

When I first spotted Giuseppe's Bar & Grille on Durango Road, just north of Interstate 215, it didn't look like much more than a large video poker bar. But I found the ethnic-sounding name encouraging, and decided to give it a shot, hoping to score some decent pasta. Both instincts proved correct. Giuseppe's is definitely a large video poker bar. But it also features a small dining room with a large Italian menu. It's casual, and sparsely decorated with snapshots of what I assume is the Italian countryside. But the food is a godsend in a town sadly lacking in quality Italian restaurants.

Appetizers include eggplant parmagiana ($6.95), stuffed artichoke hearts ($8.95), hot and spicy shrimp in garlic sauce ($9.95) and an Italian quesadilla made with sausage, peppers and mozzarella cheese ($9.95). There are four homemade soups offered daily ($2.95 to $4.95) and eight salads ($3.95 to $10.95). Twenty or so sandwich options include sausage with peppers, onions and provolone ($7.95); chicken parmigiana ($7.95); ribeye steak ($11.95); four burgers ($6.95 to $8.95); and the opportunity to create your own burger from the ground up. There's also a pizza section ($6.95 and up).

Those looking for something more substantial can choose from "Italian specialties" like chicken or veal prepared either Milanese, Marsala or parmigiana style ($13.95 to $17.95); a couple of eggplant dishes ($13.95 to $14.95); and chicken piccata ($13.95). In the "chophouse" section of the menu you'll find pork chops ($13.95), charbroiled sirloin in marsala sauce ($14.95) and BBQ pork ribs ($9.95 and $17.95). And seafood selections include tilapia stuffed with crabmeat ($18.95), almond-crusted halibut ($19.95) and blackened walleye ($17.95).

But it was a craving for pasta that originally brought me to Giuseppe's, and it's the pasta section of the menu that will keep me coming back. Their basic selections include linguini, penne, angel hair and fettuccini offered with either basic tomato sauce or marinara ($8.95). There are another seven options such as cavatelli ($9.95), gnocchi ($9.95) and linguini with clams ($15.95). Any of the pasta dishes can be spiced up with any of 18 options, ranging from meat sauce ($2 extra), pesto ($1 extra) or Alfredo sauce ($3 extra), to chicken, shrimp or crabmeat (each $4 extra).

Among my favorite dishes are Giuseppe's amazing lasagna ($12.95) and some lighter-than-air homemade gnocchi to which I added roasted garlic and a tasty meatball ($11.95 total). From the appetizer section, fans of spicy food will be unable to resist the delicious hot peppers stuffed with sausage and mozzarella ($7.95). And the modest antipasto platter for two ($11.95) has all of the basics, even if it is missing some of my favorite ingredients like mushrooms and artichoke hearts, and is large enough that I always have leftovers to take home

So far, I haven't had a bad dish at Giuseppe's, although I am wary of the fettuccine carbonara, which I've been informed is made with American bacon rather than Italian pancetta. That complaint aside, however, the majority of food reminds me of the kind of casual Italian food I grew up on in New Jersey.

The staff at Giuseppe's is friendly and knows the menu as well as they seem to know their regular customers. More importantly, I've always gotten what I've ordered in a timely fashion -- which is more than I can say for our local utility companies.

Giuseppe's Bar & Grill
6065 S. Durango Road
896-7616
http://www.lvcitylife.com/articles/2006/06/29/dining_out/dining.txt